TP7 - 3.5v, RUMBLE MOTOR+ ( switched power source) TEST POINTS NOTE: If it doesn't say power source, don't use it to power something. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed. J2/J6 Connector Pinout NOTE: "Wired" from here on means connected with the microUSB cable.ġ - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)Ģ - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)Ħ - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. RSC = Right Stick Click, Right Stick's button LSC = Left Stick Click, Left Stick's button There are no really great places to solder up wires for the LT and RT lines, the only options being a Via, the RC filter after the Hall Sensor (R42/C38 for LT, R39/C36 for RT) or an MCU lead.įor any unfamiliar with my naming scheme.
Xbox 360 rock candy controller mod install#
If a Trigger is wished to be duplicated, it will get done the same way, one side of the new button will go to Ground, the other side to the LT or RT line, but install a 10ohm Resistor on one side or the other of the new Tact switch so it's not a direct short to Ground when the Tact is pressed. Then the LSC and RSC connections can be made right on the solder joints for them. The B button has a Via, as well as a solder pad at D14 directly beneath it that can be used. The connectors J5 and J6 are the best place to solder up wires for all of the buttons, with the exceptions of B, LSC and RSC.
If any button is wished to be duplicated, it's just a matter of one side of the new button going to any Ground spot, then the other side going to the button line that you want to duplicate. The Triggers are also in a setup where they go Lo when pressed, but they are a bit more complex than the 10k Potentiometer style that its 360 predecessor sported, more detail on those later. The new XB1 controller is a CG (Common Ground) setup for all of the Buttons.